2002
Of gardens and castles
Naturalistic Silks from the eighteenth century
28th April - 10th November
daily 2 p.m. - 5.30 p.m.



Naturalism

Silk designs in the naturalistic style first evolved in France in the 1730s. The designer Jean Revel played a major role here. He allegedly invented the so-called points rentrés-effects, by means of which gradual colour transitions and shading could be achieved in the representation of plant motifs.

Silk with pineapple
France (probably Lyons), c. 1735-1740, inv. no. 4952



Designs

The designs of the silks were composed in the form of gouache drawings. Many of these drawings have survived, and in individual cases they may be linked to existing silk weavings.

Silk with fountain
France (probably Lyons), c. 1735-1740, inv. no. 4850


Variants

Some silks have survived in the form of several variants. These exhibit the same composition, but differ in the colours of the ground and motifs or in the direction of the design.

Silk with a view of a castle and flower garlands
France (probably Lyons), c. 1735-45, inv. no. 4989 b



Use and Re-Use

Most of the silks shown here were originally intended to be made into ladies’ dresses. Skirt panels can be recognised by the fact that their design is concentrated in the lower part of the fabric. Discarded garments were frequently given to the church and the precious silks later re-used in the making of liturgical vestments.

Silk with moated castle
Spain, c. 1735-1740, inv. no. 2684


Fantasy and Variety

The silks reveal an overwhelming variety of pictorial designs. They represent formal gardens and landscapes with fantastical flowers or details of princely interiors. Ornamental bands and flower garlands link the individual motifs into elegant compositions.

Silk with flowers and landscape
France (probably Lyons), c. 1735-1740, inv. no. 2423