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Of Gardens and Castles
Naturalistic Silks from the eighteenth century 28th April – 10th November 2002 daily from 2.00 p.m. to 5.30 p.m. Splendid flowers with thin stalks and large blooms and leaves next to miniaturised castles, pavilions and parks decorate a group of silks from the early eighteenth century, which are shown in this year’s special exhibition at the Abegg-Stiftung. Only apparently copied after nature, these textile masterworks are painterly transformations of frequently exotic prototypes and may be counted among the highlights of European decorative art. Flowers provided the main interest, as shown by the exhibition, which visualises the development of naturalistic designs on the basis of around fifty silks from the period around 1730 to 1745. With the aid of highly developed weaving techniques most complex and detailed designs could be realised. An abundant use of gold and silver threads lends the silks additional brilliance. The exhibition is accompanied by a comprehensive catalogue raisonné of all naturalistic silks in the collection of the Abegg-Stiftung. * * * Splendid flowers with thin stalks and large blooms and leaves next to miniaturised castles, pavilions and parks decorate a group of silks from the early eighteenth century, which are shown in this year’s special exhibition at the Abegg-Stiftung. Only apparently copied after nature, these textile masterworks are painterly transformations of frequently exotic prototypes and may be counted among the highlights of European decorative art. At that time rose the interest in foreign nature or as one imagined it. Flowers provided the main interest, as shown by the exhibition, which visualises the development of naturalistic designs on the basis of around fifty silks from the period around 1730 to 1745. Furthermore, the important role of the French designer Jean Revel is revealed who first introduced a painterly style into silk with the invention of new means of representation. The fabrics, originally intended for the court and the higher bourgeoisie, were produced in prominent weaving centres, such as Lyons. With the aid of highly developed weaving techniques most complex and detailed designs could be realised. An abundant use of gold and silver threads lends the silks additional brilliance. While fabric patterns changed with every season the cut of costumes remained relatively stable throughout this period. Discarded garments were often given to the church where their costly materials were re-used to make liturgical vestments. The latter were frequently again taken apart in the nineteenth century and made into decorative coverlets for the art market. The exhibition is accompanied by a comprehensive catalogue raisonné of all naturalistic silks in the collection of the Abegg-Stiftung. An extensive introduction explains in several chapters the stylistic development and former use of the silks. This is followed by 211 richly illustrated catalogue entries. Texte français sur demande |
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