2007
Dragons of Silk, Flowers of Gold
Textile Treasures of the Chinese Liao Dynasty (907 – 1125)

29 April – 11 November 2007
daily from 2.00 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.

Garments around 1000 years old from what is today northern China are the focus of the new special exhibition at the Abegg-Stiftung in Riggisberg. The astonishingly well-preserved silk clothes and accessories, vibrant with colour, provide an exclusive insight into the dress of the upper class of that time. Together with elegant gold mounted ceramic vessels, they introduce us to a world of luxury and beauty that was home to the Liao-dynasty princes – even in the grave.

The elite of the Liao dynasty presented itself in silk from head to foot, both in life and death. The exhibited textiles probably originate from the grave of a noblewoman and include several robes, jackets, pants and skirts, as well as a silk headdress, sumptuous ornamental bows and boots.

The magnificent culture of the little-known Liao dynasty has only come to light through excavations over the last twenty years. Spectacular finds in richly furnished tombs testify not only to the significance of textile art, but also to a highly developed artistic application of other materials. To complement these fascinating textiles from the collection of the Abegg-Stiftung, the special exhibition also features a selection of exquisite gold mounted ceramic objects from a private collection.

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Unique silk garments and accessories from what is today northern China are the focus of the new special exhibition at the Abegg-Stiftung in Riggisberg. These splendid textiles, around 1,000 years old, provide an insight into the luxurious dress worn by the upper classes of that time. Together with elegant gold-trimmed ceramic vessels, they introduce us to the world of luxury and beauty that the princes of the Liao Dynasty in-habited – even in the grave.

The elite of the Liao Dynasty clad itself in silk from head to foot, both in life and in death. This exhibition shows textiles found in the grave of a noblewoman, whose funeral wardrobe included cloaks, coats, jackets, pants and skirts, as well as a headdress, splendid ornamental bows and silk boots. It is likely that the deceased was wrapped in several layers of clothing. She seems to have been buried wearing three pairs of pants and two skirts as well as at least two jackets and a coat.

NOMADS DRESSED IN SILK
The little-known Liao Dynasty was founded by the nobility of the Qidan, a group of semi-nomadic tribes that regularly set up camp in the upper reaches of the Liao river in what is today northern China. In 907, the tribes united and founded the Qidan Empire, which was later renamed Liao. This empire rose to become the principal power in Eastern Asia and at one time controlled an area stretching from Manchuria and Mongolia as far as what is today Beijing. The Qidan also defeated the army of the Song Dynasty that ruled the rest of China. At the peace talks between them it was agreed that the militarily defeated Song Dynasty pay a tribute of 200,000 bolts of silk a year. The Qidan elite then had this silk worked into the most exquisite raiments, consisting of several layers of fabric. Indeed, the silk was so plentiful that it was used even as a lining material and for padding.

RADIANT COLOURS, ELEGANT DESIGNS
The exhibition features seventeen of the Qidan's magnificent, multi-layered silk garments and various accessories. These textiles are around one thousand years old and have survived thanks to the dry climate prevailing in northern China and to years of painstaking conservation and restoration work at the Abegg-Stiftung. The textiles' attractive colours, highly detailed woven patterns and elegant embroidery make them a particularly stunning sight for today's visitor. Finely textured plain silk gauze was often used for the visible outer layer of a garment, and this then lavishly embroidered with silk and gold thread. Some items, for example, are strewn with enchanting flower-and-bird motifs on a dark red ground. The blue skirt embroidered with large dragons is particularly impressive, while fabrics with multicoloured designs are embellished all over with floral medallions, lions and dragonfish, all of them vibrant with colour.

PRECIOUS GRAVE FURNISHINGS
The magnificent culture of the Liao Dynasty has only come to light as a result of excavations carried out over the last twenty years. Spectacular finds in richly furnished tombs testify not only to the significance of textile art, but also to a high level of skill in the crafting of other materials too. To complement the fascinating garments, the special exhibition also includes a silver funeral mask with matching earrings which – like the textiles – are from the Abegg-Stiftung's own collection as well as a selection of exquisite Liao-period vessels on short-term loan from a private collection. These fascinating items, some of them made of porcelain, others of dark wood, are each embellished with the most intricately worked gold mounts and so provide an evocative impression of both the quality and the sheer extravagance of Qidan craftsmanship. Even precious items such as these were used as burial objects.

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